The gentleman in the mirror

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Published: 19th December 2012
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According to Alan Flusser notes that define both the good knight's dress are the correct choice of both colors and cut that best suits our physical peculiarities.

As you may remember who follow http://www.elaristocrata.com/ , along the short but intense life of this page we have emphasized the importance of selecting our attire taking especially the physical type of each gentleman. Because this is a rather complex issue and unfortunately not taken into account or we is explained neither by nor dependent and industry magazines, we wanted to respond to inquiries from some readers who ask us what are the guidelines that must follow to get the most out of a physicist who does not always obey the standard measures.

That is why this month which will study the guidelines to consider when cutting choose our clothes, the choice of designs, colors and accessories depending on whether the gentlemen of reduced stature, complexion thick or tall .
If anyone has studied this issue with real depth, this was undoubtedly Antongiavanni Nicholas who through his book "The Suit" a detailed study of the physical of those gentlemen who even without perfect measures lend a careful attention to their clothing and through it looking take full party.

Before starting to study in detail these complexions physical input must admit I never even the best tailor in SR and the best personal adviser can make the dress of these gentlemen is equal to that of those men who are born with a gift and a style to wear dress clothes that always look good and immensely better than us who know how to combine colors and what those designs and cuts that best suit our physique. While some are loath to admit, this has always happened and will always happen and we must accept it and not try to change, and that sooner or later we must face this reality.
Three clear examples of men who benefited from the gift were the Duke of Windsor, Cary Grant and Giovanni Agnelli. These three fashion icons, each with its particular style and would not need or large and no time or money to get a result much higher than any other knight. Simply, as also happens in the ladies, there are men who wear what they wear always look good. This needs to be addressed so as not fustrarnos.

While there are men to whom nature has gifted physical characteristics that allow them from wearing a two-button suit, three, crossed, smooth, color or even a Tweed jacket recharged etc most have to make an effort to When choosing these garments that allow us to make the most of our physique.
If nature has given us a physical and a similar size to that of Anthony Eden for sure it will be easier and faster to select our wardrobe and we can have a varied wardrobe both color models. However, if unfortunately fate has not been so generous to us, as it surely will be the case for most, we will have to devote extra effort to complete our wardrobe.

While input depart with some disadvantage to some lucky gentlemen, with a good knowledge of both our physical and cut that best hides our flaws and enhance our strengths, the end result would not have much to envy to those. A clear example of gentlemen who have an unattractive physical wear knew such success that became a benchmark of his day were Fred Astaire, Adolphe Menjou, or the same Samuel Hoare.
Before going to study in detail the essential guidelines to consider those less fortunate physical or unresponsive to the most common parameters we want to make a quick mention of how to dress those gentlemen whose physique is the most widespread, osease, those gentlemen that are neither too thick nor too thin nor too high nor too low. This belt is the highest number of gentlemen are.

These people, known in the words of Nicholas Antongiavani as "average men", have the great advantage of being able to experiment with all kinds of attire and seek advice from your own mirror on those clothes that most favor to his complexion. The choice of clothing, the cut and the color is determined by the time that will be wearing. Only the most basic rules must be taken into account by the average men: tissues near the flannel in winter, the Prince of Wales in the sunshine, the pinstripes in the afternoon, and dark colors and smooth overnight.

While costumes can opt for two or three buttons depending on your preference, should always have a double-breasted suit for formal occasions that do not require being a morning coat or a tuxedo. They may also play with accessories like cufflinks or tie and can choose from the most varied patterns.'ll Have more freedom to choose the length of the pant, the flaps and the shaping of the jacket etc. Definitely can experiment with all possible combinations to keep those they like or they most favor.
But those gentlemen of small stature, coarse complexion or stature, should be more careful when choosing your attire and even have to put aside their preferences to focus on cutting rates with optical perception playing can hide their imperfections .

The Knights of reduced height, for example, with the aim of obtaining an effect to lengthen the figure suits must opt for solid and without any drawing.

If one of us is contained measures would encourage you to do the following test: wear a tailored suit navy or gray and have your picture. Just then pick Tweed jacket and get another type photo. Join them with a computer program, cutting heads and print both photos as just one. Show this picture to your friends and ask them to take a quick look told that gentleman seems higher. Most of them will see that photo opt for whole costume knight and solid colors.
Two Gentlemen of identical height and build to cut and wearing different kinds of clothes appear to be different heights and measures

If after learning how to make the most of our short stature do this trick again and got to be our new look which is always chosen as the highest we will understand the importance of dressing according to our physical characteristics. This trick may be used for the rest of the cases discussed later. Thus we hear from the mouth of another, if indeed our goal to look thinner, lower or higher is being achieved.

We should avoid designs with horizontal lines or patterns such as Prince of Wales both horizontal lines as the pictures that repeat in a pattern, such as these cases get widen the figure but not lengthen it. Likewise, we must flee those designs with predominantly horizontal lines over vertical.

The jacket can never be long. Behind must not extend beyond the rear. The sleeves are short enough to teach minimally cuffs. If a knight of normal stature not to teach a few inches of the cuff shows a lack of elegance, this omission in a man of small stature is a big mistake to accentuate your complexion reduced.

The jacket must not buttoned below the waist and are slim if we try to highlight our entallando our jacket silhouette. If we are also thinner higher.

Shoulder pads are another great ally of the Knights of reduced stature as they help lengthen the figure and are completely necessary to get the most out of a body content.

The jacket should be open at the front from the waist down and never for greater verticality. It will be better without rear openings for without them sticking jacket over the body giving the feeling of its wearer look slimmer and consequently higher.
Most purists SR tailors advise their clients not always choose very high jacket with one button or else by two. However, they may also choose three buttons jackets but only those where the upper button merely ornamental and is not intended to be used (so-called "21/2" or "roll through"). The cut of these jackets makes the flaps may be long and come together more lower than in the "real" three-button jackets. In the next picture we see Cary Grant wearing the 21/2 most famous recent tailoring.
Another point that should be considered is that the entire suit favors them more than a loose jacket and trousers. This is because your body, as we anticipate, will be divided into two distinct parts committing verticality. For the same reason it is not recommended belt use (although in my opinion belt use does not endorse any gentleman). They therefore opt for the use of braces or else by plates.

There are other small details that we need to pay attention just like the stitched buttonhole should be taller than normal or the breast pocket of the jacket should also be in a position somewhat higher than used or that the side pockets etc. will be slightly lower. We will hide the side pocket flaps inside the pocket to increase the verticality of the whole.

Solid colors in costumes will be a good ally of the Knights of stature as stylized figure stylization and consequently this will make us look taller.

Sport jackets not feel good to the Knights of small stature to have most of these jackets designs abound vertical lines. Likewise, bright colors are not conducive to their verticality of Fig.

Prior to the last stitch in our suit and dress suggest you start the knights of stature not wear double-breasted jackets as both their buttons as many horizontal lines that form when the cross convey the feeling that your carrier is a gentleman width implying that appear in the final picture a gentleman lower than it really is.

However, if you do not want to deprive us of the pleasure of wearing a DBJ, we must emphasize that our buttons tailor the thing higher and more together than usual to make their "average clients".

Two knights without having a tall one dressed with great success DBJ were Aristotle Onassis and Humphrey Bogart unmatched.
We should try to wear the pants in the waist (not hip) so that the site starts to open the jacket matches the top of the trousers and a shirt peek.

It is important to remember that natural waist Knight is slightly above the navel and that is where we wear our pants. What we getting for this? For something as simple as an optical illusion of long legs and torso reduced. Both features will be responsible for us to show a slimmer silhouette.
Pants never rest on the shoes, only slightly touched. They wear no turns to lengthen our legs and get "taller".

Shirts should also be of a single color or else we should choose and vertical lines as thin as possible. Other designs such as herringbone discrete or even a barely visible as the box of the next picture are also suitable.
Ties, following our goal to extend the figure should not exceed 8.5cm ever in its widest part. Again, as was the case with shirts, solid colors and dark will be most suitable. If we like the stripe designs can opt for as long as they are not horizontal stripes.

There are good examples of knights without a great stature have largely managed to increase its elegance. Two were former candidate for President of the United States, Ross Perot and Michael Bloomberg businessman and politician who just knew 1.57cm and 1.68cm respectively make the best of their a priori physical disadvantaged. Other cases like Edward G. Robinson, James Cagney or David Hyde Pierce to show that a minimum following guidelines can also grow several inches and elegantly.

If until now our goal has been to extend the set of knights short, when we should advise on how to dress to the gentlemen of stature we find just the opposite, that is, try these gentlemen seem lower.

We will use the same guidelines that we have followed with the lords of small stature but just the reverse will apply.

If you have read and understood the why of these tips in the Knights short, the application of these to reverse the lords of great stature it is quite easy and therefore not go into such a detailed analysis. However, we will emphasize those formulas that we should not overlook.

The first rule to note is that it is not recommended that overly tailored garments to clothe ourselves thinner and consequently higher.
Unlike the Knights of small stature, we leave out the pads, escape the narrow lapels of jackets also no back vents. Never our jacket may be short because this failure alone is capable of ruining the whole.

The buttonhole should always be at a height below the peaks of the shirt. The side pockets are positioned at the height of the lower front button or slightly above.

The double-breasted jackets are perfect for men of great stature as the resulting extra canvas jacket and cross the horizontal lines that cross produces with an optical effect be wider and consequently also lower. The six buttons on the blazer and the termination point of the tabs also reinforce the visual effect.

While one-button jackets like the two gentlemen do not favor high, three standard buttons can dress to shorten the torso. The 21/2 will not do any damage to its flaps extended until the lower torso largely hiding it.

The more "reload" our dress better the result we get. If the gentleman of small stature would have preferred to carry only three pockets on the jacket (the two on the sides plus mandatory to hold a pocket square), the lord of great stature will advise you to opt for jackets with the three pockets ticket or Match Girl. Shall also leave out the side pocket flaps and not hide as we recommended the master of short stature, now it is not breaking the verticality of highlight.

We must flee with pinstriped suits because nothing like vertical lines to accentuate the height.

In the next picture we see two men with identical height but with different attire seem to measure the same thing.

The thick, heavy fabrics such as flannel, the Tweed type and all those with designs very marked boxes are grateful to the gentlemen of stature than with low.

When choosing our ties seek those with wide lines. There may be short because our stature will accent. The brightly colored ties are usually also more grateful. Striped ties are not the worst option from which to choose as they usually tie lines often go in diagonally breaking again verticality.

Again marked designs and pictures will be the most flattering design for our shirts and they will be responsible for broadening the optical perception of our set and appear to be lower than they really are. As with the costumes, on shirts we forget the vertical line designs and especially thin stripes that are close together between them.

However, the current as much horizontal lines encourage our shirts to extend our physical width and narrow it along.

Normally the neck of the gentlemen of stature is usually more elongated than the rest of lords so we must be especially careful when it comes time to choosing our shirt collar. The main guideline to consider is that the neck should be more buttoned up than do normal shirts to shorten our elongated neck.

Accessories are always welcome, especially twins and pocket square as they are "obstacles" encountered with the vertical. The dress of bow ties is strictly forbidden us to leave all our bare torso emphasizing our stature.

Pants must always have around. They will also have to have at least one clip. Depending on the height of the knight, the hem will be more or less wide.

Finally we can not make a mention of those gentlemen with some overweight people also have plenty of tricks that allow off those extra kilos off.

The tips to follow are very similar to those described when we talked about how they should dress the knights of short stature. The goal is the same as with those, that is, we should try to look taller. Seeming estilizaremos higher figure and consequently several kilos disappear from our body immediately.

For suits will prefer dark colors, one color or slashes. We will leave aside the rear openings and were taken into account throughout the two-button jackets.

The three-piece suits will encourage us greatly because of the vest will hide those extra kilos.

The classic three-button jackets, that is, those that are cut to be used considering the first two buttons should be forgotten. Likewise the DBJ be avoided if possible to widen more than half of those who wears.

One of the few differences between the guidelines to follow for people of short stature and the overweight is referred to the type of shirt collars. To cover a round face nothing better to opt for a neck with elongated tips.

Like the knights of stature they favored the use of braces and lengthening the optical perception of the legs and consequently the whole figure appearing higher for overweight men will help them become leaner.

Most "average men" are narrower waist and shoulders can afford notching his jacket. Unfortunately, and although this is still prohibited to stylish gentlemen somewhat overweight. The reason is that men who are overweight tend to have hip as wide as the line joining the shoulders. This ensures that however little entallemos jacket, our excess weight is transferred to clothing wrinkles forming the hated and even in extreme cases very little marking of those extra kilos aesthetic housed in our hip. It is for this reason that we must jackets be somewhat loose. When we say "something loose" we are not thinking at all in these jackets worn by many men who are overweight and they appear to be four sizes bigger than they need. This is readily apparent in the shoulders and sleeves size "extra-large"

As in the Knights of reduced height, must wear pants at the waist and hip. Dressing well our pants, get a double result: on one hand again lengthen our legs and on the other his waistband help us hide the stomach. The clips will wear the traditional English way, ie looking to reverse tweezers inside and not outside as is most common in countries like Spain and Italy. This type of clamp normally better disguises the thickness of the leg.

We should try to be the making of relatively wide trousers. If you opt for Italian cut when someone observed profile look great contrast between us and our tummy tight pants and take the wrong impression of being faced with a gentleman much wider reality.

Ties may not be too narrow to be consequently much torso uncovered.

Two good examples of how to minimize the overweight with choosing the right cut and color we can find in Sydney Greenstreet (147kg) and Jackie Gleason who, with a height of 1.77cm and weighs 136kg knew many kilos take off with only implement guidelines described here.

While RTW in ladies clothing has something on offer for some of the groups described herein, the Knights unfortunately the big brands have not been agreed and there is no other solution than to go to a good haberdasher and especially an experienced tailor who knows all these secrets and without even contárnoslos we can sew a costume that makes us grow, be shorter, fatter or thinner.

Written By:
Mark Bing

Men's Style Consultant to a tailor made mens dress shirts at Custom tailored shirts.

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